Stories and facts
Kente, a traditional Ghanaian textile made from hand-woven silk and cotton strips, holds a significant place in the cultural heritage of West Africa. Initially worn by royalty among the Ewe and Akan people in a toga-like fashion, Kente cloth has evolved into a symbol of celebration and status, widely worn to commemorate special occasions in modern Ghana and other parts of West Africa such as Togo and Ivory Coast.
Asante oral tradition attributes the origins of Kente to an individual from Bonwire, who introduced the weaving loom to the Asante people from Gyaman during the reign of Nana Oti Akenten in the 17th century. Another tradition suggests that Kente was indigenously developed in Bonwire during the reign of Osei Kofi Tutu I, inspired by the intricate web designs of a spider.
The craft of Kente weaving gained royal endorsement in the 18th century under Asantehene Opoku Ware I, who established a factory to innovate and expand weaving in the Ashanti Empire. Danish agents Nog and L.F. Rømer documented this period, noting that Opoku Ware I encouraged his subjects to weave bands of cotton, which were sewn together into sashes known as "Pantjes." By the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Kente made from silk was fully developed and had become renowned for its variety and complexity.
The term "Kente" derives from the word "kenten," meaning "basket" in the Asante dialect, reflecting its intricate, basket-like patterns. Among the Akan, it is also known as "nwentoma," or "woven cloth." According to Ashanti folklore, weavers were inspired by Anansi the spider's web patterns when creating Kente.
Kente weaving has ancient roots, with archaeological evidence of handloom weaving in Southern Ghana dating back to the 14th to 18th centuries. Sites like Begho, Bono Manso, and Wenchi have yielded spindle whorls and dye holes, showcasing the long history of textile production in the region.
Kente production can be categorized into three types: authentic hand-woven Kente, Kente print produced by brands like Vlisco and Akosombo Textile Ltd, and mass-produced Kente patterns typically made in China. Authentic Kente cloth, known for its high quality and price, is produced in Ashanti region towns such as Bonwire, Sakora Wonoo, Ntonso, Safo, and Adawomase.
The weaving process is complex and labor-intensive. Weavers, traditionally men, use wooden looms to interweave threads of dyed fabric. This skill requires years of apprenticeship under a master weaver. Authentic Kente is often marked with a brand to signify its origin and quality.
Kente patterns are highly symbolic, with each design carrying specific meanings and messages. The patterns are often named after proverbs, historical events, important figures, and plants, with the colors used in Kente also holding significant meanings. For example:
- Black: Maturation, intensified spiritual energy, spirits of ancestors, mourning, and funerals.
- Blue: Peacefulness, harmony, and love.
- Gold: Royalty, wealth, high status, and spiritual purity.
- Red: Political and spiritual moods, bloodshed, sacrificial rites, and death.
Today, Kente cloth is a symbol of pride and cultural identity. It is worn by Ghanaians and the African diaspora for various celebrations and formal occasions. However, the cloth has also been subject to controversies, particularly regarding its use outside traditional contexts. In June 2020, U.S. Democratic Party leaders wore Kente stoles to show solidarity against systemic racism, which sparked debate over cultural appropriation.
Additionally, in the fashion industry, Louis Vuitton's use of Kente-inspired designs raised questions about cultural ownership and appropriation. Despite these controversies, Kente remains an iconic and deeply respected symbol of Ghanaian heritage.
Kente cloth, known for its deep history, intricate patterns, and significant cultural meaning, remains a treasured and iconic textile in Ghana and beyond. Its lasting legacy showcases the artistry and cultural wealth of West Africa, earning admiration both locally and internationally.
